Post by rcboy1 on Aug 18, 2013 8:40:48 GMT -8
This is meant to be a simple guide to everything about the Caster S10b. Hopefully it can help answer some of your questions:
Please feel free to pm me or contact me to share your ideas on what should be added. Id really rather have this all on one or two posts to keep it simple.
If you still have questions, please, please feel free to ask at the Rctech forums or here.
Build Guide:
-Make sure to use threadlock! due to the abundant amount of metal parts on this car any and all screws that thread into metal need threadlock.
-Simply take your time on this build. The instructions are horrible as we all know but we are working on it. so for now, use your head on each step and just use common sense to what screws should be put where.
-When assembling the shocks, sometimes there may be very slight flashing on the pistons and this will need some sanding. doesnt happens very often, but it must be taken care of. Lightly rub some sanding paper on the edges of the face of the piston, these sharp edges are usually the things causing problems.
-On the front gearbox, DO NOT over tighten the rear most bumper mounting screw. in addition you want to use the smallest screw you can find that somewhat threads into the gearbox. Not doing these will cause the entire drivetrain to lock up and destroy parts on the car. Again this is a problem we are working on.
-For the sway bars, DO NOT overtighten the mounts. this may cause the plastic to deform and is just a huge pain. lightly tighten till they are snug.
-Make sure to use grease on the outdrives when assembling the diffs.
-When assembling the slipper, it is recommended to clean the front outdrive with motor spray and use red threadlock on the set screw securing it on. After the first few runs you will want to check to make sure that it has not loosened up. if it has, clean it again and threadlock as before.
-On the topic of the slipper: Just for the ease of finding parts, most of the team uses AE spur gears and slipper pads. There really isnt a performance difference but it is much easier to keep replacements on hand this way
Cross-Reference/Compatibility guide:
Springs:
We are in the process of making our own line of option springs for this buggy but for now...these fit:
-AE 12mm big bore shock springs fit pretty well but rub more than the stockers. once again very easy to find and keep on hand 'cause its AE
-Shumacher 13mm springs may fit, but I have never tried them
Pistons:
*Caster now offers blank pistons, so other brand are not needed!
Spur Gears:
-As said before, AE slipper pads and spurs fit
Ballcups:
Why in hades would you want other ballcups? These things will never pop off during a race
-But, AE ballcups DO fit
Setup help:
-I have found using 2mm or so behind the ball studs on the ackerman bar gives the car just better handling overall. This is one of the advantages of our steering system, it allows you to adjust the steering characteristics for your track
-Most of our team drivers use the longest possible wheelbase (by moving shims) the car can have. This seems to work very well and is a great starting point for any track
-Toe plates are available for the buggy, in 2.0, 2.5, and 3.0 degree plates. Most of us use the 2.5 stock plate, and sometimes the 3.0
-Blank pistons are available for shock tuning!
ALL for now, will continue updating this.
Please feel free to pm me or contact me to share your ideas on what should be added. Id really rather have this all on one or two posts to keep it simple.
If you still have questions, please, please feel free to ask at the Rctech forums or here.
Build Guide:
-Make sure to use threadlock! due to the abundant amount of metal parts on this car any and all screws that thread into metal need threadlock.
-Simply take your time on this build. The instructions are horrible as we all know but we are working on it. so for now, use your head on each step and just use common sense to what screws should be put where.
-When assembling the shocks, sometimes there may be very slight flashing on the pistons and this will need some sanding. doesnt happens very often, but it must be taken care of. Lightly rub some sanding paper on the edges of the face of the piston, these sharp edges are usually the things causing problems.
-On the front gearbox, DO NOT over tighten the rear most bumper mounting screw. in addition you want to use the smallest screw you can find that somewhat threads into the gearbox. Not doing these will cause the entire drivetrain to lock up and destroy parts on the car. Again this is a problem we are working on.
-For the sway bars, DO NOT overtighten the mounts. this may cause the plastic to deform and is just a huge pain. lightly tighten till they are snug.
-Make sure to use grease on the outdrives when assembling the diffs.
-When assembling the slipper, it is recommended to clean the front outdrive with motor spray and use red threadlock on the set screw securing it on. After the first few runs you will want to check to make sure that it has not loosened up. if it has, clean it again and threadlock as before.
-On the topic of the slipper: Just for the ease of finding parts, most of the team uses AE spur gears and slipper pads. There really isnt a performance difference but it is much easier to keep replacements on hand this way
Cross-Reference/Compatibility guide:
Springs:
We are in the process of making our own line of option springs for this buggy but for now...these fit:
-AE 12mm big bore shock springs fit pretty well but rub more than the stockers. once again very easy to find and keep on hand 'cause its AE
-Shumacher 13mm springs may fit, but I have never tried them
Pistons:
*Caster now offers blank pistons, so other brand are not needed!
Spur Gears:
-As said before, AE slipper pads and spurs fit
Ballcups:
Why in hades would you want other ballcups? These things will never pop off during a race
-But, AE ballcups DO fit
Setup help:
-I have found using 2mm or so behind the ball studs on the ackerman bar gives the car just better handling overall. This is one of the advantages of our steering system, it allows you to adjust the steering characteristics for your track
-Most of our team drivers use the longest possible wheelbase (by moving shims) the car can have. This seems to work very well and is a great starting point for any track
-Toe plates are available for the buggy, in 2.0, 2.5, and 3.0 degree plates. Most of us use the 2.5 stock plate, and sometimes the 3.0
-Blank pistons are available for shock tuning!
ALL for now, will continue updating this.